Wrist Warmers on The Addi King

This is my first pattern on a knitting machine. I've made a YouTube video below, as well as a pdf of my wrist warmer instructions. 

I'm new to using my Addi King knitting machine, I'm hoping to purchase the smaller machine: the Addi Express Profession because I am enjoying this one so much. So far, I'm a happy knitting machine user.

This machine has been wonderful, as you can see, holding a set of needles is presently a challenge and the machine has allowed me to continue to create knits and maintain my feeling of productivity in my craft. 

  

PDF: Wrist Warmers on The Addi King

Upcycled Cat Fountain

My cat appreciates this upcycle. With it he can sip a small stream of water from the tub faucet.

I cut 2/3 off the bottom of a bottle, plus enough of the side to fit over the faucet so that it hangs. And I pierced a tiny hole in the lid. 

Mini Kraken - Octopus

(Copyrights: Elizabeth Pierre)

 40-60 minutes

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate - a variety of stitches and techniques are used, shaping and finishing, unique cast on variation.

NEEDLE SIZE: 4mm (US 6)

MATERIALS: 4-5 yards of worsted weight yarn,  scrap lengths for embroidering face, and stuffing. (Example in pictures were made with scraps of Red Heart Super Saver: ball band details missing)

GAUGE: Not essential for this project. Blocking optional.

FINISHED DIMENSIONS: On 4mm needles: about 1 & 1/2 inches  to 2 inches wide.

ABBREVIATIONS:
C/O - cast on; K - knit; K2tog - knit 2 together; LLI - left lift increase; M1P - make 1 purlwise; P - purl; RLI - right lift increase; RS - right side; Ssk - slip, slip, knit; Stst - stockinette stitch; S1L - slip one leftward; T - turn; W/E - weave end in; WS - wrong side;

and, special techniques:

CDd - centred double decrease, on the right side of work: with yarn back, slip two stitches together knit wise, knit one and pass the slipped stitches over;

PDd - purlside double decrease, on the wrong side of work: with yarn front, slip one as if to knit, slip the next as if to knit, slip both back to the left needle together knitwise, and purl 3 together.

Long tail cast on with tips, written: Cast on 5 stitches and turn work, slip two stitches together knit wise, knit one and pass the slipped stitches over, slip stitch just knit back to left hand needle; turn work and continue cast on with the next 8 and turn again for the next star point's centred double decrease.

(sts)x# - Stitch sets shown inside brackets followed by an x symbol and numeral indicate what is to be repeated and how many times.

PATTERN:
Worked bottom up.

Using long tail method, C/O 47 stitches like this:
C/O 5, T-CDd-S1L-T, (C/O 8, T-CDd-S1L-T)x7, C/O2. Leave end long for use in step 4.

1: P1, (CDd, s1, P2tog)x7, CDd, P1. = 24 Pinch and tweak shape of each limb, lengthen and straighten.

2: (PDd)x7. = 8

3: K

4: P. And, W/E up to active stitches, knot securely on WS, whip stitch across through every second purl bump and leave long. This will be used to draw bottom closed after stuffing.

5: K2, LLI, RLI, K4, LLI, RLI, K2. = 12

6: P6, M1P, P6. = 13

7-8: Stst

9: (K2tog,)x3, K1, (Ssk)x3. = 7

FINISHING:
- Cut yarn (leaving long enough for seam) and draw through remaining stitches, and
- before seaming back, embroider face: single stitch eyes made parallel/diagonal under the K2tog right of centre and under ssk left of centre; and the mouth goes across the centre increase made in step 6.
- Insert a minute amount of stuffing, draw step-4 strand tightly closed and secure end inside.

Ravelry Database: Kraken by Elizabeth Pierre

Zombie Arm

Test knit by my Walking Dead sibs on Ravelry, I bring you zombie arms:

This is a cat toy, in which a toothpick may be inserted to be propped in a house plant.

Yarn: worsted weight zombie colour (green, or gray, or mottled pink, etc)

Needle size: 3.25mm straight (US size 3), and a darning needle for shoveling ooze.

Gauge is not essential, finished piece in worsted weight is approximately 3 inches long (8cm).

Optional: toothpick.

Post Apocalyptic skillz level: EASY - long-tail cast on, Cable cast on, knit into front and back of stitch, pick up stitches, yarn front, yarn back, slip stitch.

Abbreviations:
T - turn
P - purl
B/O - bind off
Kfb - knit front and back
S2L - slip 2 leftward
C/O - cast on (use Cable cast on or your preferred method)
K2tog - knit 2 together as one
S1L - slip 1 leftward
S3L - slip 3 leftward  (makes up elbow in step 9)

YF - yarn forward
YB - yarn back

Pattern:

C/O 17 sts using long-tail method. T.

1: P. T.

2: B/O 4, Kfb, S3L. = 14

3: C/O 9 sts. = 23

4: B/O 7, K2tog, S2L. = 15

5: C/O 7 sts. = 22

6: B/O 7, K2tog, P3, K5, Kfb, K3. T. = 15

7: P 14, Kfb. T. = 16

8: C/O 7 sts. = 23

9: B/O 7, K2tog, P3, K7, YF-S3L-YB, K6. T. = 15

10: P 14, Kfb. T. = 16

11: C/O 5 sts. = 21

12: B/O 16, K2tog, S2L, B/O 4.

Knot ends together and seam arm closed. Tweak fingers for length and curl.

 TAGS: zombie dead undead amigurumi Halloween pet cat toy TWD where’s-carl

Cute Little Stars

(Copyrights: Elizabeth Pierre)

15-20 minutes

SKILL LEVEL:
Intermediate - a variety of stitches and techniques are used, shaping and finishing, unique cast on variation.

NEEDLE SIZE:
4mm (US 6)

MATERIALS:
Scrap amounts (2-3 yards) of worsted weight yarn. (Example in pictures were made with scraps of Red Heart Super Saver: Purple - ball band details missing)

GAUGE:
Not essential for this project. Blocking optional.

FINISHED DIMENSIONS:
On 4mm needles: about 1 & 1/2 inches  to 2 inches wide.

ABBREVIATIONS:
C/O - cast on; RS - right side; WS - wrong side; P - purl; S1L - slip one leftward; T - turn;
and, special techniques:
CDd - centred double decrease, on the right side of work: with yarn back, slip two stitches together knit wise, knit one and pass the slipped stitches over;
PDd - purlside double decrease, on the wrong side of work: with yarn front, slip one as if to knit, slip the next as if to knit, slip both back to the left needle together knitwise, and purl 3 together.

Long tail cast on with tips, written: 
Cast on 5 stitches and turn work, slip two stitches together knit wise, knit one and pass the slipped stitches over, slip stitch just knit back to left hand needle; turn work and continue cast on with the next 8 and turn again for the next star point's centred double decrease.

(sts)x# - Stitch sets shown inside brackets followed by an x symbol and numeral indicate what is to be repeated and how many times.

PATTERN:

Worked from the outer edge to the centre.

Using long tail method C/O 29 stitches like this:
C/O 5, T-CDd-S1L-T, (C/O 8, T-CDd-S1L-T)x4, C/O2.

RS: P1, (CDd, s1, P2tog)x4, CDd, P1. = 15

WS: (PDd)x5. = 5

FINISHING:
Cut yarn and draw end through remaining stitches twice and weave ends in. Hold centre of star and tweak tips.

MM Needle Sleeves

(copyrights: Elizabeth Pierre)
(30 min)

Needle size in millimetres is indicated on this sleeve with bobbles and eyelets: whole numbers by bobbles and quarter numbers by eyelets; the number of indicators required will determine the number of cast on stitches (meaning the width of the work; and as such, the length of the sleeve). This pattern is originally designed for four DPNs; a tighter seam or a row more (or less) may better accommodate your needs.

Based on my available scrap yarn colours, I’ve colour coded my needle sleeves to my needle sizes (My 3.0, 3.25, 3.5 &, 3.75 sleeves are blue).

Requirements: Use whatever needle sizes the needle sleeves are meant for; Darning needle; Scissors; Worsted weight in a small amount (use a lighter weight for needles smaller than 3mm and hold yarn double for needles larger than 6mm).

Gauge: is not essential for this pattern, though use of DK weight may also accommodate your needs.

Abbreviations:

B/O - Bind Off.

C/O - Cast On.

K - Knit.

K/b - Knit below. Knit into stitch below which raises and widens eyelet.

K2tog - Knit two together.

Kfbf - Knit front, back, front. Create three stitches from one.

P - Purl.        

sl1 - Slip one.

sl3L - Slip three stitches leftward.

ssK - Slip, Slip, Knit.

W/E - Weave Ends.

YO - Yarn over.

3-Stitch Bobble: worked from one stitch
1) Kfbf
2) sl3L, K3.
3) sl3L, K2tog, sl1, pass the knit stitch over.

Second Row Eyelet: YO, ssK.      

        

Sixth Row Eyelet: K2tog, YO.

4.50mm Needle Sleeve Instructions:

4.50mm will require four bobbles and two eyelets; the eyelets in pairs need 3 stitches, the bobbles in pairs will need 6 stitches, +2 for the left edge. C/O 11st.

1) P.

2) K2, Eyelet, K2, bobble, K2, bobble, K2.

3) P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P5.

4) K2, K/b, K8.

5) P.

6) K1, Eyelet, K2, bobble, K2, bobble, K2.

7) P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P5.

8) K2, K/b, K8.

B/O, seam long edges together. W/E.

Notes:
- I used 2-strand (or 2-tail cast on). Use whatever works for you.
- To express a ½ mm the third stitch becomes the eyelets in row #2 and row #6
- To express a ¾ mm the third & sixth stitches become eyelets in row #2 and the sixth stitch becomes an eyelet in row #6.
- The eyelets are slanted opposite so they don’t render each other.
- The 3-Stitch Bobbles are the same throughout the pattern.

3.75mm Needle Sleeve Instructions:

3.75mm: three bobbles and three eyelets; eyelets 6 stitches, bobbles 6 stitches, +2 for left edge. C/O 14st.

1) P.

2) K2, Eyelet, K1, Eyelet, K2, bobble, K2, bobble, K2.

3) P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P8.

4) K2, K/b, K2, K/b, K8.

5) P.

6) K4, Eyelet, K2, bobble, K2.

7) P2, sl1, P5, K/b, P5.

8) K5, K/b, K8.

B/O, seam long edges together. W/E.

If you would like to get a hold of me find me on Ravelry: CastOnCalamity

Bunny Snout

SKILL LEVEL:
Intermediate - a variety of stitches and techniques are used, colour changes, shaping and finishing.
NEEDLE SIZE:
Use whichever size is used in the project this snout is intended to be attached to. I-cords can be worked on straight needles, but double pointed needles eliminate the need to transfer stitches leftward. (Example in pictures were worked on 4.5mm DPNs)
MATERIALS:
Scrap amounts of yarn in three colours in whatever weight used in the project to which this will be attached  tooth-colour, face-colour, and nose-colour. (Example in pictures were made with scraps of Red Heart Super Saver: White, Beige, Pink - ball band details missing)
GAUGE:
Yarn weight and needle size to match project, gauge will be as set in project.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS:
On 4.5mm needles: 1 & 9/16ths inches wide x 1 & 1/2 inches top to bottom
ABBREVIATIONS:
C/O - cast on; rnds - rounds; sts - stitches; (RS) - right side; K - knit; K2tog - knit two together; P - purl; YB - yarn back; S1 - slip one; YF - yarn front; LLI - left lift increase; RLI - right left increase; S2kp - Slip two together, knit one, pass slipped stitches over.
(sts)x# - Stitch sets shown inside brackets followed by an x symbol and numeral indicate what is to be repeated and how many times.

KNITTING:
Worked bottom up, and finishes as a flat piece to be shaped with sewn in stitches using strands left long at colour changes.
C/O 3 in tooth-colour, leave long ends.
I-cord 2 rnds, leave on needle, snip and make second tooth
Position both teeth, front facing, on one needle - 6sts
Switch to face-colour to make cheeks, leaving a long ends:
(RS) K2, K2tog, K2. - 5sts
P2, YB, S1, YF, P2.
(K1, LLI)x2, YF, S1, YB, (RLI, K1)x2. - 9sts
P4, YB, S1, YF, P4.
(K2, LLI)x2, YF, S1, YB, (RLI, K2)x2. - 13sts
P
K6, YF, S1, YB, K6.
P6, YB, S1, YF, P6.
K2tog, (S2kp)x3, SSk. - 5sts
P2, YB, S1, YF, P2.
Switch to nose-colour, leaving long ends:
K1, S2kp, K1 - 3sts
I-cord 4 rows, snip end and draw through remaining stitches.

SHAPING:
Fold nose in half and sew top edge of nose to the bottom edge of nose behind work (knot strands together, do not trim yet).
Baste-stitch down center of cheeks using face strand closest to nose, pull to gather and knot behind with a nose strand, these two strands may now be trimmed, leave one long nose strand for attaching to face.
The uppermost tooth-strands can each be woven in so as to draw the tooth tops firmly closed behind, trim after making a small knot.
You now have four long strands left.

ATTACHING:
Weave in ends as you go. Begin by holding appliqué centred in position on face.
Secure each tooth with a small neat stitch at corners using the tooth-strand.
Secure edges of cheeks using face-strand making sure to keep nose centred. Tuck a small pinch of stuffing into first cheek as it is done and second cheek just before last stitches are placed.
Secure nose using nose strand.

TAIL SIZED TO MATCH:
Of all the pompom instructional videos on YouTube I like Bernat Yarns: "How To: Make A Pompom with a Fork" and I share it with you here with a few minor modifications.

1. I draped the 12" centre tie-strand through the center prior to beginning to wrap (loosely secured in a bow on the handle so I was able to undo it effortlessly).
2. I made my pompom the same worsted weight beige as the face-colour above.
3. 70 wraps, rather than 50.
4. I knotted the centre strand more than once, first while on the fork, then I slipped the wraps to the fork tip threaded strand to opposite side and knotted again. I positioned the tie-strands through to the original side before sliding wraps off; after sliding off and  before snipping loops, I knotted a third time - even tighter.  (Probably overkill, but I wanted to ensure that it didn't come apart in tufts because my pompom was meant for a child's toy.)

My Bunny Snout design was inspired by a test knit I did for a fellow Ravelry member. She will be publishing her pattern in a magazine coming out in November this year (until then: no finished project pictures can be posted). If you are on Ravelry, check out gabrielle009 and her designs: Gabrielle Vézina